Author Topic: Waxing irons  (Read 1441 times)


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Re: Waxing irons
« on: February 10, 2013, 06:55:35 am »

When you make the wooden clone out of a piece of 1 x 3 wood, you will have to cut out material in the front to match the height of the ski boot so that it fits into the binding. 1x wood is has more depth and will not fit under the bindings. Forgot to mention that, and, make sure you hold the clone when removing it via opening the rear binding. There is  lot of spring energy and the clone can fly-up with a lot of energy. Trust me on that one!

After my short list above, I'd buy a dedicated ski vice. I still don't own brushes and just let the snow scrape off the little remaing excess wax during the first run ( I do scrape off the dried wax after it cools down during the tuning process ). Waxing is not really messy, don't put a lot on, and, keep the iron cool enough so that smoke does not result. Wax smoke stinks! :'(
The wax that's scraped off is easily picked up with a vacuum.